A / V
D I S T R I B U T I O N
&
C O N T R O L
S Y S T E M S
Instruction Manual
SP652.1 SP622.1
WHERE TO PLACE YOUR SPEAKERS
STEREO IMAGING
Placement can make all the difference in how your RUSSOUND
speaker system sounds. There are at least three “WHERE’s” and a
“HOW” to factor into your layout:
If your Russound In-wall Speakers are going to be your primary lis-
tening source in a room, you need to consider some other factors to
insure proper imaging. The term “stereo imaging” refers to a speaker
system’s ability to project music so that it sounds like the performers
are in a 3-dimensional space between the speakers. It’s the whole
point of having a stereo instead of monophonic sound.
• HOW you intend to use your in-wall speakers
• WHERE they’ll sound best (stereo imaging and acoustic
considerations)
• WHERE it’s possible to install them (wall and ceiling surfaces)
• WHERE they can be installed that makes it easy to get wires to
them without remodeling your entire house.
Drawing 1
Russound In-wall speakers may
be used for rear surround sound
channels by placing them (1)
behind, (2) on each side of the
viewing position or (3) in the
ceiling just behind the viewers.
The SP652.1 speaker also make
excellent, unobtrusive front
channel home theater speakers
for 5 channel listening.
EXCELLENT
for stereo imaging
FINE for
background music;
ACCEPTABLE
for stereo
effect
5
4
4
EXCELLENT
for stereo imaging
2
2
3
3
1
1
3
OTHER ACOUSTIC CONSIDERATIONS
INSTALLATION DEPTH
For best fidelity, there are several other factors to keep in mind before Russound In-Wall speakers require at least 2-3/4” of wall depth
you start actual installation.
(measured from the outside surface of the wall). This means that
they can be installed in any wallboard and 2x4 stud wall. In fact, the
dense, rigid nature of plasterboard or (lath and plaster in older
homes) acts as a superb speaker baffle.
Concerns and reflections:
You can also install Russound speakers in stud walls covered with
thick wood paneling or in wallboard/plaster ceilings.
When an in-wall speaker is placed close to the corner of a room, bass
frequencies are emphasized. This can be okay if both speakers are
mounted near corners (while maintaining stereo imaging). But try to
avoid placing just one speaker in a corner and another on a long flat
wall.
However, avoid:
• T-bar “drop ceilings” with very thin fiberboard panels which can
buzz and vibrate. If you suspect this will happen, reinforce the
drop-in panel with wood or particle board.
Treble is emphasized when it reflects back from reflective surfaces
such as large windows. Conversely, highs tend to be muffled by soft
surfaces such as drapes, rugs, upholstered furniture, carpeted steps
and even textured fabric wall paper.
• Any wall which can’t provide proper depth (clearance) for the back
of the Russound speaker. This includes brick or concrete walls
where the wallboard or paneling is attached to thin furring strips.
In general, the best acoustic performance will result if both speakers
face a similar type of surface and are placed in similar positions on
the same type of wall.
• Inside wall space less than 10” wide and 48” in height
• Walls where you know that there are pipes, heating ducts and
ESPECIALLY AC wiring in the general vicinity. For example, if there
is an outlet along the baseboard, there is often a live wire running
partly up the wall at that point.
Drawing 2
Okay
Ideal
4
SPEAKER WIRE PATHS
PAINTING THE SPEAKERS
In general, you should pay particular attention to the following areas:
If you like the designer white finish which has been applied to your
Russound In-Wall Speakers, skip to the section “cutting holes”. But if
you want your speakers to completely blend in with a colored wall or
accent the surface, now is the time to paint your Russound speakers’
outer frames and perforated grilles.
• Avoid running speaker wires close to house electrical wiring for
any distance. If you have to run them parallel, make sure to space
the speaker wires at least two feet from the AC line. It is, however,
okay for speaker wires to cross paths with AC line or go through
the same hole together with house wiring if they separate before
and after.
The speaker’s outer surfaces are primed to accept ordinary latex wall
paint or aerosol spray paint. Because the surface behind the perfo-
rated grille should remain black, you will need to mask this area off
before you begin painting or use the included template cover.
• Make sure that the entire path between speakers and amplifier is
clear and not obstructed by a floor or ceiling joist or masonry wall
which you won’t be able to drill through.
1. Remove the speaker grilles. From the back of the speaker, push
• Remember that the other end of the wires has to come out some-
where to connect with the amplifier. Confirm ahead of time that
you can drill an outlet hole easily and in an un-obtrusive spot.
the clamp (dog-ear) towards the grill to loosen it so you can pull it
off.
2. Attach masking tape to the cardboard masking template which
has been included with your speakers.
3. Press the template onto each speaker’s surface to cover the woofer
and tweeter.
4. Paint the outer speaker frame and grille separately. A roller with a
short or medium nap will work much better than a brush. If you’re
using spray paint, make sure that you achieve the same coverage
on both grille and frame.
5. After the paint has thoroughly dried, remove the template and/or
masking tape.
There’s no need to replace the grill at this time since you will need
access to the inner speaker surface during installation.
5
CUTTING HOLES FOR THE SPEAKERS
Wallboard is an easy surface in which to make a relatively neat hole.
Make sure you don’t make it any bigger than the template. In the
following steps, you’re going to locate a section of wall between two
studs, mark the outer boundaries of the hole, drill a small hole in the
center to confirm your location and then cut the main hole.
5. Insert the angled part into the 1-inch hole you just drilled and
probe to left and right to confirm that a stud is not close on either
side.
* If there is a close stud on one side, just re-position the cardboard
template a few inches in the opposite direction and re-draw your
pencil outline, keeping the 1-inch hole within the pencil outline’s
inner boundaries.
1. Determine the location of your wall studs so that the speaker can
be approximately centered between them. There are several ways
to go about this:
6. Score the outline of the template with a utility knife to prevent
chipping or wall paper from tearing. Then use a keyhole/dry-wall
saw to cut in the opening.
* Tap on the wall and listen to the resulting “THUMP”. When it’s
deeper, you’re between studs. When it’s sharper and more flat-
sounding, you’re close to a stud.
* If you’re dealing with lath and plaster or thick paneling, you
need to use a different technique. Drill 1-inch holes at the cor-
ners of the pencil outline. Then use a fine-toothed key-hole
saw or even a hacksaw blade with VERY slow strokes to saw
through and remove the inner surface.
* Use a stud-finder, a simple little magnetic device which works by
locating the lines of nails hammered into the stud.
* Identify studs by the position of electrical outlets or switches.
There will be a stud either directly to the left or right of a an elec-
trical fixture. This gives you a point of measurement since studs
are either 18 or 16 inches apart in newer houses, 12 inches apart
on older homes.
7. Temporarily place a Russound speaker into the cut-out to insure
that it fits properly. It’s okay if the hole is slightly large, since it
will be covered by the speaker’s outside frame. Actual installation
will happen later, after you’ve routed the speaker wires.
2. When you’re reasonably sure of where the wall’s 2x4 studs are
(and are TOTALLY sure that there isn’t an electrical cable, water
pipe or heating duct in that vicinity of wall), position one of the
cardboard mounting templates and draw around the inner outline
with a pencil. If you don’t trust your eye, use a level to make sure
the hole will be straight.
8. Repeat steps 1 through 7 for the other speaker.
9. Now it’s time to drill the hole on the OTHER end -at the point
where the wires from the speakers will exit to the amplifier/receiv-
er.
* Use the same 1-inch drill bit as before.
* If you want a custom look, install an outlet box against a stud and
cover it with a single outlet plate which has one hole in the mid-
dle for the wires to exit from OR order from your Russound dealer
a Russound Stereo pair Wall Plate Connector.
3. Drill a 1-inch hole in the center of the pencil outline which you
have just drawn.
4. Obtain a length of stiff wire such as an unwound, totally un-bent
coat hanger. Bend it so that the last 12 inches is at a right angle
to the rest.
Drawing 3
A. Trace template outline
B. Drill 1-inch pilot hole
C. Probe with wire for
stud clearance
D. Cut speaker hole
along outline
6
* Correct the POSITIVE (+) conductor to the RED terminal and the
NEGATIVE (-) conductor to the BLACK speaker terminal.
HOOKING UP YOUR SPEAKERS
IDENTIFYING “+” AND “-”
* Make sure that no stray strands of wire have gotten detached and
are touching the other main wire.
You need to be able to discriminate between the two conductors of
the speaker wire. If your wire has transparent insulation, this is easy:
One conductor will be copper-colored and the other silver-colored.
Generally, professionals denote the copper one as POSITIVE (+) and
the silver one as NEGATIVE (-).
7. Repeat Steps 1 through 6 for the other Russound In-Wall Speaker.
AT THE AMPLIFIER END
1. Cut off excess wire, leaving enough to comfortably reach from the
hole in the wall to your stereo system. If there’s a possibility that
you’re going to move the amplifier to another part of the room,
consider leaving some excess wire coiled up. If you’ve used suffi-
ciently thick wire, this extra length will not affect speaker per-
formance and could make re-routing easier if the room is
rearranged later.
If you’ve used wire which has an opaque insulation, there are still dif-
ferentiating markings. Examine the wire closely and look for:
1. A series of ribs or grooves on one conductor
2. A painted stripe or dotted line
* Denote any of these as the POSITIVE (+) conductor for similar
connections on both ends.
2. Pull the conductors on both speaker wires apart so they’re separat-
ed for the last two inches.
NOTE: It is important that you label your wires left and right
when you run them to eliminate future confusion.
3. Using wire strippers, diagonal pliers or a knife, remove 1/2 inch of
insulation from each conductor.
AT THE SPEAKER END
4. Twist the tiny strands in each conductor into tight spirals.
1. Cut off excess wire, leaving about 2 feet extending through the
speaker cut-out hole.
5. Attach the speaker wires to the red and black speaker terminals on
the amplifier or receiver.
2. Pull the conductors apart so they’re separated for the first two
inches from their ends.
* Connect the POSITIVE (+) conductor to the RED terminal and the
NEGATIVE (-) conductor to the BLACK speaker terminal of the
receiver/amplifier.
3. Using a wire stripper, diagonal pliers or a knife, remove 1/2 inch of
insulation from each conductor.
* Make sure that no stray strands of wire have gotten detached and
are touching the other main wire.
4. Twist the tiny strands in each conductor into tight spirals, as
shown in Drawing 4.
Repeat Steps 1 through 5 for the other speaker.
5. IMPORTANT: Route the speaker wire THROUGH the sheetrock as
shown in Drawing 5.
Drawing 4
6. Attach the speaker wires to the red and black speaker terminals.
Press down on the protruding levers while inserting the wire into
the hole.
Drawing 5
7
FINAL ASSEMBLY
A QUICK TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
1. If you haven’t done so already during painting, remove the perfo-
rated grilles from both Russound In-Wall Speakers. Use the clamp
(dog-ear) to push the grille out from the back side.
Before returning your Russound In-Wall Speakers for service, it is a
good idea to check out these simple remedies first.
No sound from either speaker:
2. Center the frame in the cut-out hole and tighten the screws until
the clamps are drawn up snugly from behind, clamping the speak-
er in place. Try to tighten each screw equally but do not over
tighten.
1. Incorrect source selected on receiver or preamplifier.
2. Mute button pressed on receiver.
3. Wrong speaker output selected; many receivers have an “A” and
“B” speaker switch. Make sure it’s in the right position.
3. Place speaker baffle in frame and attach with supplied screws.
4. Insert the Russound speaker grille by gently pressing it into place.
4. In-Wall Volume control not turned up or wired incorrectly.
5. If using a “speaker selector”, room/station not turned on or
improperly connected
In most installations, the grilles will fit tightly without causing vibra-
tion. If any audible vibration does occur, or if your Russound speakers
are ceiling mounted, you finally get to use the contents of that mys-
terious packet with the black stuff wrapped in little white papers.
They are pre-cut lengths of a special damping/adhesive material.
Remove the perforated grille, unwrap four of the damping strips and
affix them to the four outer corners of the inner speaker surface.
Then replace the grille.
No sound from one speaker:
1. Un-secure connection at either the speaker or amplifier-double-
check them.
2. Balance control turned all the way left or right-return it to center.
3. Bad connecting cable between sound source and amplifier - try a
new cable.
4. Defective speaker - contact your Russound dealer or call our cus-
tomer tech department at 603.659.5170.
A QUICK LISTENING TEST
It’s a good idea to test everything at this point. Also, although we’ve
paid close attention to speaker polarity, we hope you labeled your
wires to identify the left and right speakers.
* Any other problems not listed, discuss with your dealer or call
Russound.
1. Turn on your stereo system. Make sure that the VOLUME control is
turned down and that the BALANCE control is set to center.
2. Activate a musical source such as FM or CD player.
3. Gently turn up the volume. You should hear music coming out of
your new Russound In-Wall Speakers! (If you don’t, refer to the
troubleshooting guide below.)
4. Now rotate the stereo’s BALANCE control all the way to the LEFT.
Sound should only come out of your left in-wall speaker. If it
comes out of the RIGHT speaker, skip to Step 6.
5. Rotate the BALANCE control all the way to the RIGHT. Sound
should only come out of the right speaker.
6. If sound comes from the right speaker when the stereo’s balance
control is turned to the LEFT, you’ll need to change the connec-
tions on the back of the amplifier/receiver.
* FIRST TURN OFF THE AMPLIFIER!
* Swap the wires attached to the left and right speaker terminals.
8
TAKING CARE OF YOUR NEW IN-WALL SPEAKERS
MORE ON SPEAKER WIRES AND AMPLIFIER IMPEDANCE
RUSSOUND In-Wall Speakers are designed to last the life of your
home if you follow a few simple rules.
Not all amplifiers or receivers can safely operate two sets of speakers
at once. If you intend to use your Russound In-Wall Speakers at the
same time as your main speakers or if you intend to hook up two
pairs of speakers and use both at the same time, it’s important to
consider both the impedance of the speakers and the capabilities of
the amplifier you’re using. Russound makes a complete line of prod-
ucts from Impedance-Matching Volume Controls to Impedance-
Matching Speaker Selectors. Ask you Russound dealer for details or
simply write your request for a line catalog to Russound or FAX us at
603.659.5388
The main “killers” of any loudspeaker system are:
• too little power at high volumes
• too much power at high volumes
• transients (immediate loud passages, thumps, etc.)
Too little power:
First, consult the owner’s manual that came with the amp or receiver.
It should tell you the minimum speaker impedance during simultane-
ous operation. On some models the manual will recommend that
only two pairs of 8-ohm speakers be used at the same time. Others
might allow one set of 8-ohm speakers and one set of 4-ohm imped-
ance speakers. A few extremely powerful receivers and power ampli-
fiers may even allow two sets of 4-ohm speakers.
It’s a surprising fact but far more speakers are damaged by too little
power than by too much! When an amplifier runs out of power
while trying to re-create musical peaks, it causes a form of high fre-
quency distortion called clipping. Clipping simply makes the music
sound distorted. In greater quantities over a period of time, it can
damage or destroy the tweeters (high frequency speakers) in any
speaker system. If you like your music LOUD, consider getting an
amplifier with at least 50 watts per channel.
If you can’t readily determine this information, consult the dealer
where you purchased the amplifier, or call the manufacturer of the
product in question. Next, determine the impedance of your other
speakers. It’s often printed on the back of the enclosure near the
connection terminals, or you can consult the speaker’s owners manu-
al.
Too much power:
There’s nothing wrong with driving your Russound speakers with as
much as 150 watts per channel—the extra power helps them achieve
quick musical transients found in digital recordings. However, you
must remember to restrain yourself and not get too heavy-handed
with the volume control (or remote buttons). If the music begins to
sound distorted or you hear a “clacking” sound during bass notes,
back off on the volume! The clacking is caused by the woofer’s voice
coil trying to come out of its socket.
If your other speakers are rated at 4-ohms, some amplifiers may
experience difficulty driving both 4-ohm sets at once and shut off
intermittently when the volume control is turned up. In this case, you
should operate only one set of speakers at a time or keep the volume
extremely low.
Another option is to purchase a speaker selector such as the
Russound SS4 & SS6 series or a PRO series speaker selector. These are
designed to maintain impedance control allowing your amplifier to
work efficiently.
Transients:
Loud, deep THUMPS, caused when your system is turned on/off, or
when the tonearm is dropped too hard on a record (if you still use
those great classics), can seriously damage any loudspeaker including
your Russound In-Wall models. Also remember to turn your system
off before disconnecting any hook-up cables. When they’re pulled
out, a huge burst of low frequency hum often occurs if the system is
still on.
9
INSTALLATION DURING NEW CONSTRUCTION
WARRANTY
Needless to say, installing In-Wall speakers when a house is being
built is far easier than doing it later.
All Russound Speaker products are fully guaranteed against all
defects in materials and workmanship for five years from date of
purchase. Proof of Receipt must accompany all claims. During
the warranty period Russound will replace any defective part
and correct any defect in workmanship without charge for
either parts or labor. For this warranty to apply, the unit must be
installed and used according to its written instructions. If
necessary, repairs must be performed by Russound. The unit
must be returned to Russound at the owner’s expense and with
prior written permission. Accidental damage and shipping
damage are not considered defects, nor is damage resulting
from abuse or from servicing performed by an agency or person
not specifically authorized in writing by Russound. Damage to
or destruction of components due to application of excessive
power voids the warranty on those parts. In these cases repairs
will be made on the basis of the retail value of the parts and
labor. To return for repairs, the unit must be shipped to
Russound at the owner’s expense, along with a note explaining
the nature of service required. Be sure to pack in a corrugated
container with at least 3 inches of resilient material to protect
the unit from damage in transit.
Russound offers a ‘Speaker Rough-In Kit”. The SB-3.6 Rough-In kit is
designed to provide the drywall installers the cut-out for the In-Walls.
The kit comes with two brackets, one for the left speaker and another
for the right. The brackets are nailed/screwed onto the wall studs.
Once the house/room is completed, you can install the speaker (more
on this below).
During new installation, keep the following tips in mind:
• Use a small level to verify that the mounting frame is straight.
• The flat brackets and nails which attach the speakers are thin
enough that they won’t interfere with wallboard added later.
• If possible, run speaker wires after AC wiring is in place to avoid
induced hum caused by close parallel proximity.
• Secure speaker wires in place along the run with insulated staples
only and be careful not to pierce the insulation. Allow a bit of
slack for expansion of building materials.
• The actual speakers should not be installed until the wall board is
in place. In the meantime, leave several feet of wire coiled up and
secured to the back side of the mounting frame.
This Warranty Does Not Cover:
• When it comes time to put up the dry wall, make sure the speaker
cut-out hole doesn’t extend farther than 1/4” from the sides of
the mounting frame.
• Damage caused by abuse, accident, misuse, negligence, or improp-
er operation (installation).
• After the wallboard is put up, install the speakers as detailed on
pages 5 of this manual.
• Products that have been altered or modified.
• Any product whose identifying number or decal, serial #, etc. has
been altered, defaced or removed.
• Normal wear and maintenance.
Due to our continual efforts to improve product quality as new tech-
nology and techniques become available, Russound/FMP, Inc. reserves
the right to revise speaker systems specifications without notice.
10
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
SP622.1
Frequency Response: 63-21,000Hz
Construction: 6.5" injection molded cone Dual voice coil woofer with
rubber surround. Two 13mm mylar Dome tweeters
Sensitivity: 88dB
Min / Max Power: 10W/Ch / 70W/Ch
Impedance: 8 ohm
Frame Type: ABS plastic, paintable
Grille: Fine mesh grille, paintable (steel)
Mounting: 4 self-mounting, self-contained clamps
Dimensions: 10"W x 10"H x 3.125"D
Rough-In Bracket: SB-3.6
SP652.1
Frequency response: 58-21,000Hz
Construction: 6.5" injection molded cone woofer with cast basket and
rubber surround. 13mm Uni-Axis mylar Dome tweeter.
Sensitivity: 88dB
Min / Max Power: 10W/Ch / 70W/Ch
Impedance: 8 ohm
Tweeter Level Switch: -3dB Flat +3dB
Frame Type: ABS plastic, paintable
Grille: Fine mesh grille, paintable (steel)
Mounting: 4 self-mounting, self-contained clamps
Dimensions: 10"W x 10"H x 3.125"D
Rough-In Bracket: SB-3.6
11
A
/
V
D
I
S
T
R
I
B
U
T
I
O
N
&
C
O
N
T
R
O
L
S
Y
S
T
E
M
S
5 Forbes Rd. Newmarket, NH 03857, USA
¤ 603.659.5170 • Fax 603.659.5388
e-mail: [email protected]
Fax-On-Demand: 603.659.5590
Come visit us at:
|